Twist Those Seams!

Having super flat seams at block intersections or block units, makes quilting so much easier. A few years back, I learned how to twist my seams and that was a game changer.

Way back in 2014, I wrote up a blog post on how to twist seams and it was well received. I know that it helped a lot of quilters and that makes me happy. That information is still good, but I've made a couple of changes in process. You can see the original tutorial HERE. 

Recently, while facilitating an on-line Mapleton Avenue Sew Along for Chestnut Ridge Sewing, I demonstrated this updated seam twisting information. The pattern called for seam twisting, but many participants had never done it and didn't understand what to do. I included twisting in the weekly video and was thrilled to hear people say how much they appreciated the video.

With that in mind, I decided to edit the video to just the twisting segment and share it here. My hope is that between the original tutorial and this video, you become a Seam Twister!

https://youtu.be/eufD8RxOFxQ

Christmas in July - Tutorial and a Giveaway!

Even though our temperatures have been in the 90's all week,

we are celebrating Christmas in July

with a continuation of the

12 Days of Christmas in July Blog Hop

 

Thanks to Sarah - Confessions of a Fabric Addict - for organizing this hop.
And in case you haven't see it already, Sarah is hosting a Christmas Quilt Along. 
If you sew for just one hour a day, for twelve days, you'll end up with a really neat quilt that measure 76" x 76".
What a deal.   
Sarah, you are awesome!
 

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Joining me today and providing a tutorial for a machine applique pillow cover with a string of Christmas lights is

Paige Alexander @ Quilted Blooms 

 

Like me, Paige is offering a giveaway so be sure to check out her site. 

 

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In case you missed a day or two of the hop,

here's a complete list of the participants.



July 14th:     Sharon Vrooman @ Vrooman’s Quilts

                    Carole Carter @ From My Caroline Home

July 15th:    Yanicka Hachez @ Finding Myself As An Artist

                   Chris Dodsley @ Made by ChrissieD

July 16th:     Marsha Hodgkins @ Quilter in Motion

                    Leanne Parsons  @ Devoted Quilter

July 17th:     Tonia Conner @ All Thingz Sewn

                    Selina @ Selina Quilts

July 18th:     Lara Buccella @ Buzzin Bumble

                    Soma Acharya @ Whims and Fancies

July 19th:     Joanne Harris@ Quilts by Joanne

                    Suzy Webster @ Adventurous Applique and Quilting

July 20th:     Vicki in MN @ Vicki’s Crafts and Quilting

                    Jennifer Fulton @ The Inquiring Quilter

July 21st:     Michele Kuhns @ Crayon Box Quilt Studio

                    Jan Ochterbeck @ The Colorful Fabriholic

July 22nd:     Alla Blanca @ Rainbows. Bunnies. Cupcakes.

                     Zenia Rene @ A Quilted Passion

July 23rd:     Joanne Hubbard @ Everyone Deserves a Quilt

                    Paige Alexander @ Quilted Blooms

July 24th:     Carolyn Jones @ …by CJ

                    Tisha Nagel @ Quilty Therapy

July 25th:     Susan Arnold @ Quilt Fabrication

                    Beth Sellers @ Cooking Up Quilts

                    Linda Pearl @ One Quilting Circle

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Like my blog title says, I believe that

Everyone Deserves a Quilt

and I think that

Everyone Deserves a Christmas quilt too.

 

 

This quilt will finish approximately 57" x 75", but it can easily be adapted to be larger or smaller.

There are two repeating blocks for this quilt, and each one finishes 9". You will be making 18 star blocks and 17 chain blocks.

 

When I saw these fabrics, I knew that they were just screaming to be made into a lap quilt. Since I didn't have a real definite plan when I was buying the fabric, I had to do some quick estimations and keep my fingers crossed that I guess correctly.

 

 

As soon as I got home, I started sketching and it wasn't long before I knew exactly what I wanted to do. And thankfully, I had bought enough of every fabric. YAY! 

 

So what do you need to make your very own quilt?

 

Star Background Fabric - 1 3/8 yards

Star Center - 5/8 yards

Star Points - 1 yard

Chain Block Center and Corners - 1 yard

Chain Rectangles - 7/8 yard

Border 1 - 1/2 yard

Border 2 - 1 1/4 yards

Binding - 2/3 yard

 

Star Blocks (Make 18)

Cutting

Star Centers

   *Cut 3 strips, 5" x WOF (width of fabric) and sub-cut into 18 - 5" x 5" squares.

     Each strip will yield 8 squares, so you will only need to cut 2 squares from the last strip.

 

Star Background Fabric

  *Cut 5 strips - 5" x WOF. Sub-cut into 70 - 2 3/4" x 5" rectangles.  Each strip will yield 14 rectangles.

  *Cut 6 strips - 2 3/4" x WOF

          From 1 strip, cut 2 - 2 3/4" x 5" rectangles  AND  12 - 2 3/4" x 2 3/4" squares

          From the remaining 5 strips, cut 60 - 2 3/4" x 2 3/4" squares

 

Star Points Fabric

  *Cut 11 strips - 2 3/4" x WOF. Sub-cut into 144 - 2 3/4" x 2 3/4" squares. 

    Each strip will yield 14 squares.     

 

Assembly
Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the star points squares. Lay a star point square right sides together on a star background rectangle. Be careful of the orientation of the drawn line. You may find it helpful to place a pin in the corner, as shown in the picture below.

 

Sew along the drawn line. Trim 1/4" from the sewn line.

 

 

Press to the corner (star point). 

 

Each star block will have four of these units, so you will need to make a total of 72 of these.

 

Now we are going to do the same thing to the other side. Remember to watch the orientation of the drawn line. It doesn't matter which direction you sew, Do whatever feels the most natural or creates the best results.

Trim and press as before.

 

Oops! I forgot the picture of the finished flying geese unit!

 



Once you've completed all 72 flying geese units, you are ready to sew the star block together.  YAY!!

 

Lay out the block as shown below. Each star consists of one center square, four flying geese units, and four corner squares. Isn't this pretty?

 

 

 

All we have to do now is sew each row and then sew the rows together!

 

 

I'd like to share a few tips that will help you sew and keep those points we all so desperately love in star blocks.



 

When sewing, sew with the flying geese unit on top and the solid piece close to the feed dogs. Not only will this allow you to watch the seam allowance direction so it doesn't get flipped over, it will also ensure that you get nice sharp points.

 

In the picture below, you are sewing the flying geese unit to the star center square. Can you see the X that is created from your previous seams? Use this as a guide to know exactly where to sew to maintain the points.  

 





 

  

 

I also find it helpful to add a few extra pins so there is no shifting when I'm sew the units together. I especially like to place a pin near the end of the seam I'm sewing as well as along the perpendicular edge. I know it's extra time, but I think the results are well worth the time and effort.

 

Back to the block construction...



 

Press the top and bottom row to the small corner squares and press the center unit to the large center square. In other words, press away from all of the flying geese units.

 

 

Once all of the rows are sewn, sew them together. Follow the same procedure for hitting the X to keep those points sharp.

 

WooHoo! Make 18 of these beauties.

 

 

 

Are you still here? Great!

Just a little bit more and then the fun begins.

Don't forget that once we've got the quilt top together, there is a giveaway.  :-)

 

Chain Blocks (Make 17 )

Cutting

Chain Centers and Corners

   *Cut 3 strips, 5" x WOF (width of fabric) and sub-cut into 17 - 5" x 5" squares.

     Each strip will yield 8 squares, so you will only need to cut 1 square from the last strip.

   

 *Trim the remainder of the last strip to 2 3/4" x WOF (approximately 35").

    Sub-cut the strip into 12 - 2 3/4" x 2 3/4" squares.

 

  *Cut 4 strips - 2 3/4" x WOF and sub-cut into 56 - 2 3/4" x 2 3/4" squares. Each strip will yield 14

     squares. A total of 68 squares is needed.

 

Chain Rectangles

  *Cut 5 strips - 5" x WOF. Sub-cut into 68 - 2 3/4" x 5" rectangles.  Each strip will yield 14 rectangles.

 

Assembly

(I promise that this block is very easy and will go together much quicker than the star blocks!)

 

Lay out the block as shown below. Be careful if you are using a directional fabric like I did.

 

 

Just like with the star blocks, sew the units into rows and them we'll sew the rows together.

 

 

Press towards the rectangles.

 





 

Now sew the rows together to finish the block. (See, I told you this was much faster than the star blocks!)

 

 

Quilt Top Assembly

 

Lay out the blocks following the picture below. You will have seven rows of five blocks each. Rows 1, 3, 5, and 7 will begin and end with stars and rows 2, 4, and 6 will begin and end with chain blocks. Again, be careful if you have used a directional fabric.

 

 

 

With the star blocks always on top, carefully sew rows together. Because the star blocks will be on top, you will be able to see the X and maintain those perfect points.

 

 

Remember when I told you that I like to take the time and add extra pins? Now would be a really good time to do that!

 

 



Press towards to chain blocks, which will help reduce the bulk that is created at the intersections.

Press all of the rows in one direction. Out of habit, I press up. The quilt top should measure approximately 45 1/2" x 63 1/2".

 

 

Yay! It's time for borders and then the giveaway!

 

Border 1
Cut 6 strips - 2" x WOF. Diagonally piece all of the strips together. Trim and press seams open. Measure the length of the quilt and cut 2 pieces that length.

Sew these to the sides and press to the borders.

Measure the width of the quilt, including the newly added side borders. Cut 2 pieces that measurement and sew them tot he top and bottom of the quilt top. Press to the border.  The quilt should measure approximately 48 1/2" x 66 1/2".

Border 2
Cut 7 strips 5" x WOF. Diagonally pieces the strips together, trim and press seams open. Following the same procedure as before, add the border to the sides first and then the top and bottom of the quilt top. Press to the borders.

And there's your completed quilt top!

 

This was as close to a winter/Christmas picture as I could get. The firewood reminds me of the cold and I can't wait to snuggle under this beauty while sitting by the fireplace.

 

 

I'd love to see quilts made using this tutorial!

***The Giveaway is CLOSED***

 

And now for the long-awaited giveaway...

Do you send out Christmas cards?

 

Here's your chance to win 20 beautiful cards

and the stamps to go with them.

 

 



On Sunday, July 31st, I'll randomly select a winner from the comments left here on my blog. 

 

Sunday Shenanigans

First of all...

Happy Mothers' Day

It's a beautiful day and I hope to be able to spend some time outside to enjoy the fresh air and sunshine. But first, I have to finish cleaning up my basement from a broken water heater that spewed water all over.  YUCK!! The worst part about all of this is that I wasn't home when it happened. My husband had arrived home a few hours before I did so he spent a good 2 1/2 hours vacuuming by himself. He's such a good man!!

So where was I? I was out celebrating the release of the new Quilt Sampler Magazine that features M & E Quilt Shoppe and one of my patterns. YIPPEE!!

 

If the magazine is not on the shelves in your area, they will  be soon. There are some awesome shops and quilts featured this time. It is well-worth reading.

 

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And, today I am the guest blogger over at Confessions of a Fabric Addict. I've provided a tutorial for a very simple and quick to make quilt. If you need a quilt fast, whether it's for a gift or donation, this tutorial may just fit the bill. It's perfect if you have some charm packs sitting around because it just takes 96 - 5" squares and 2 3/4 yards of background fabric.  I call my version After the Rain and you'll see why when you read the post. Here's a picture before quilting.

Hope you enjoy it!

 

Hands2Help Link Party

I almost forgot about today's link party for Hands2Help!

Following are a couple of links to tutorials for quilts I like to use for quick donation quilts.

 

Please feel free to ask questions if something doesn't make sense to you.

First up is the All Boxed In tutorial:

Although I used 3 1/2" strips to make this, it can easily be adapted to 2 1/2" strips and be made using a jelly roll and be very scrappy. All you need to do is to have contrast between the two fabrics of the blocks and rotate dark and light blocks. Easy Peasy!

 

http://joanne-everyonedeservesaquilt.blogspot.com/2015/04/tutorial.html

 

Here a few of the quilts I've from this pattern. 

 

And then there's the Charming Stars tutorial:

This is a disappearing nine patch variation that I just LOVE!

It's easy to do, makes large blocks and the star points float so you won't chop them off and have a pointless star.

 

http://joanne-everyonedeservesaquilt.blogspot.com/2014/06/tip-tuesday-charming-star-tutorial.html

This quilt looks great in red, white and blue, but I also love it in other fabrics as well. Although I don't have a picture to show you, this is a great stash buster and the quilt looks great when you have the stars made from a variety of colors and fabrics.

 



And finally, when I am on sewing mission, the last thing I want to do is stop to cook a meal. Check out this link for a number of crock pot options for delicious meals that require very little time.

 

http://joanne-everyonedeservesaquilt.blogspot.com/2014/05/tip-tuesday.html

 

Check out other tips, tutorials, recipes, etc. over at

Confessions of a Fabric Addict.

Flange Binding Tutorial - Picture Heavy

 The technical problem is fixed, and it was not the cable. 

As promised, here is the tutorial for how to  

add a flange binding 

totally by machine.

Warning!! 

This post is very picture heavy.

Here we go...

Determine the amount of fabric needed

If you aren't sure how to do that for "regular" binding, here's a quick refresher:

1. Measure the perimeter (all the sides) of the quilt.

2. Add 10-12" corner turning allowance, etc. 

3. Divide that number by the width of your binding fabric to determine how many strips you'll need. 

4. To determine the amount of yardage needed, multiply the number of strips needed times the width you will cut your strips.

Example: a 40" x 50" quilt

40" + 40" + 50" + 50" = 180"  +  12"  = 192"

192" divided by 40" of usable width of fabric = 4.8 strips - round up to 5 strips

5 strips x 2 1/2" = 12 1/2"  = 3/8 yard (13 1/2")

It is a little different when determining yardage for a flange binding because you will be using two different fabrics and they are cut two different sizes.

For this sample, I used red for the flange and blue for the outside binding strip.

Cut the appropriate number of strips determined above as follows:

Flange Fabric (red) - 1 3/4" (1 7/8" for a bit larger flange)

Outside Binding (blue) - 1 1/2" 

Diagonally piece the strips so you have two long pieces of fabric (one for the flange fabric and one for the outside binding fabric).

Press all of the seams open

After both strips are sewn together and pressed, sew them together along the long edge. I like to have the smaller piece (the outside binding fabric) on top. I just feel that it helps me be consistent and avoid flipped fabrics.

Once the strips are sewn together, press them to the outside binding fabric (blue)

With wrong sides together, press the long strip in half horizontally.

Align the raw edges of the newly sewn binding strip to the back of the quilt with the flange fabric facing up. (This is opposite of what you do when you are going to hand stitch the binding to the back.) I find it important to "walk" the binding around the quilt to prevent the seams of the binding from ending up at the corners. If they are there, it is quite challenging to fold it over because of the bulkiness. 

Using a walking foot if you have one and leaving a 8-10" tail at the beginning, sew the binding strip to the quilt. (I tend to sew with a slightly large 1/4" seam allowance and have no problems.)

Stop sewing 1/4" (or whatever your seam allowance is) from the edge of the quilt. See the white mark in the picture below? That's where I stopped sewing. See the note below to know exactly where to stop perfectly every single time! 

To find the stopping  point, fold the binding strip up to create a 45° angle (picture #1 below) and crease that seam (picture #2 below). Wherever your seam hits the crease is the correct stopping point (picture #2 below).  Sorry! The technical difficulties I was experiencing caused the deletion of the pictures using the red and blue fabrics.

                                           Picture #1                                            

  Picture #2     

Remove the quilt from the machine and fold the binding back upwards creating a diagonal fold (a 45 degree angle is formed). Be sure to align the raw edges of the binding with the raw edges of the quilt as in the picture below. (The raw edges create a straight line going up.)

                          

While holding the diagonal fold in place with your finger, fold the binding down, making the fold even with the top of the quilt edge. Make sure that the binding underneath does not stick out beyond the fold. Pinning is not necessary, but it does help keep things lined up better (and makes taking a picture easier).  :-)

Sew from the top fold with the same seam allowance as before. Continue to the next corner, where you will stop 1/4" (or the size of the seam allowance) from the corner, as before.

Once you miter the last corner, sew down the final side until you are approximately 8-10" from the end of the tail left from when you started adding the binding (not where you started sewing). The tails should overlap.

Remove the quilt from the machine and lay it on a flat surface.

Lay out the beginning tail so it is flat and smooth along the edge of the quilt. Fold the ending tail until it meets and "butts" up to the beginning tail (red in the picture below). 

From the point of the meeting, mark a line on the ending tail that is equal to the width of the binding strip. In this case, it should be 2 3/4" (2 7/8" if you made the flange larger)

Cut the ending tail on the marked line. The strips will overlap an amount equal to the width of the binding strip (2 3/4" or 2 7/8"). 

To join the two strips, you will diagonally piece the strips as you did earlier. Careful turning will avoid twisted strips. Again, sorry for the "odd" pictures but the original ones are somewhere in cyberspace

Open the beginning tail and lay it flat, with the right side up. Flip the folded edge of the ending tail so that it is facing downward. 

Rotate the folded edge of the ending tail so it is now upright and facing the left edge, near the beginning tail.

Open the ending tail so it is right side down and draw a diagonal line from the upper left corner to the lower right corner (as you did earlier when diagonally piecing the binding strips). 

Pin and sew along the drawn line, just like you did when piecing the original binding strips. You may want to use a basting stitch here to verify that you have properly lined up the flange and outside binding fabrics. (See pictures below.)

Basted along the seam line.

And it worked! Yeah!! Make adjustments as needed and then stitch using the regular stitch length.

Trim 1/4" from the stitched line, towards the corner. Press the seam open.

Refold the binding, wrong sides together. Press if needed. Align the raw edge of the binding to with the raw edge of the quilt and finish sewing the binding strip to the quilt.

Press the binding out away from the seam so it is easier to fold it to the front of the quilt. Once it is folded over to the front, stitch in the ditch between the flange fabric and the outside binding fabric. Using a thread color that matches the flange fabric will "hide" the stitches. You might find it helpful to pin or clip the folded fabric so as to prevent it from shifting while sewing.

When you approach a corner, fold and stitch as you would if you were hand sewing. I like to use my Clover Wonder Clips to hold the corners in place. 

First fold

Second fold

Secure in place for stitching

Simply turn the corner as you are stitching in the ditch. To make it easy and look nice, be sure to keep your needle in the down position when you are turning the corner.

It's hard to see the stitching on the back so I put my seam ripper down to point it out. By the way, I often use the seam ripper as a stiletto to help move the quilt along, especially when working in the corner. 

Here's where the two tails were sewn together and then sewn down from the front. Not too bad!

I just love the touch of color that this flange adds to the quilt.

Plus, it doesn't take nearly as long to do as hand stitching.  :-)

Good luck and let me know if you have any questions.